Book reviews

Take One Fish
Amy Stuart Amy Stuart

Take One Fish

★★★★★

Josh Niland is a solid Instagram follow, and it’s a medium that suits what he does. For the North American market, a trip to Australia to eat at his restaurant St. Peter is an impossibility. The content he posts online, though, is a manifesto to a way of thinking about fish that is entirely alien to most home cooks. The shorthand is to treat fish like you would meat: keep it away from water, source locally, age it, use all parts, and stay away from industrial practices. This book is a detailed instruction on ambitious fish preparations that make use of the whole fish and a shorthand for using fish that you might otherwise overlook.

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Black, White and the Grey
Amy Stuart Amy Stuart

Black, White and the Grey

★★★★☆

This isn’t a cookbook per se, but a dialogue between both authors punctuated by recipes that are meaningful to the story, such as dishes that they cooked for each other at different junctures, or dishes they trialled for the restaurant opening, kind of like an adult scratch and sniff book.

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Bavel
Amy Stuart Amy Stuart

Bavel

★★★★☆

Middle Eastern via California, this book has a great pantry, a handful of breads, and flavourful sauces without being overly technical. The dishes are fresh and have an opinion and you’ll only find them in this book.

I’ve heard the story of the Tower of Babel a lot in my life. I went to a Jewish elementary school and loved (still love) bible stories. In it, the people of the world unite to build a tower so tall it reaches heaven. God, always afraid humans will supplant him with their ingenuity, makes everyone building the tower speak different languages…

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