Have you been to Dupont?

The Last Schmaltz by Anthony Rose and Chris Johns

Every city has these artificial boundaries that the Very Downtown lord over the rest of the city. In the early aughts when I was studying at OCAD we would joke that we wouldn’t live or hang out north of bloor. Well 2008 happened, and Airbnb and unregulated development and soaring rent. In 2010 I moved to the noblo and fell in love with the neighbourhood. Anthony Rose’s suite of restaurants one major street north of bloor. Dupont is notable for its big box grocery stores and 4 lanes of rush hour traffic. Rose has 6 locations within a few blocks along the same street: an israeli restaurant, a jewish deli, a bbq restaurant, a french bistro turned middle eastern spot, a diner, and a backyard burger joint/flea market. Each one is different but they all share an esprit and delicious food in luscious generous sharing plates. They’re also fun and experimental, kitschy without being unserious. Anthony Rose’s email newsletter is the only one I read regularly because it’s weird and funny and charming, like his restaurants. I bought this book on pre-order because I’m a fan (and actually attended the book launch by mistake when I was meeting a friend at the Bar Begonia patio not knowing it was closed for a private event. Rose asked us to please stay because he’s a mensch) but I hadn’t cooked from it yet. The book hand picks recipes from across their locations, some of which have turned over into a whole new concept since publication, so I’m especially excited to relive some of those evenings I spent at the counter at Begonia dipping crudités in aioli and getting drunk on bespoke cocktails.

 

The recipes

I tried to choose recipes across all the different sections of the book but ended up choosing ones that I might not order at one of the restaurants to get the range, including a clam chowder, and the confit duck legs I wish I had ordered while Begonia was still Begonia. It was hard to choose, tbh, and I know I will be thinking of the things I didn’t include as I’m enjoying the things I did. I’ve cut the recipes to serve 2 people.


Prep

Finger chili hot sauce
Duck salt
Bonnie’s Challah
Lemon dill gravlax
Aioli
Mi-cuit trout
Confit duck legs
Pickled beets
Caesar dressing
JW bird
Court bouillon

Lunches

Egg Salad (p.7), LemonDill Gravlax (p.7), with Bonnie’s Challah (p.7)
Poke-ish (p.59)
Le Grand Aoili (p.33)

Dinners

JW Bird (p. 172) and Endive Salad (p. 172)
All-Day Breakfast (p.163)
Clam Chowder (p.118) and Brussels Sprouts Caesar
Confit Duck Legs (p. 172) and Sweet Potato Gratin (p. 172)

Drink

Rose and Sons Caesar (p.238)

Shopping list

I always assume you have salt, pepper, olive oil, and flour. I added in salt here because you’ll see you need a box of kosher salt to cure the fish.

 

Vegetables & fruits

Baby carrots
Belgian endives (2)
Brocolli
Brussels sprouts (3 cups)
Carrots
Celery
Fennel
Garlic
Golden beets (1 lb )
Green beans
Lemons
Limes (1)
Radishes (2)
Red grapefruit (1)
Red onion
Russet potatoes (½ lb)
Shallots
Spanish onions
Scallions
Sweet potatoes (½ lb)
White onion (1)
Yukon gold potatoes (1 lb)
Raw hen-of-the-woods mushrooms
Red finger chilies (½ lb )


Herbs

Bay leaves (3)
Fresh chives
Fresh cilantro
Fresh dill
Fresh thyme
Fresh tarragon
Fresh parsley


Spices

Black pepper
Black peppercorns
Chili flakes
Dried thyme
Fennel seeds
Furikake
Juniper berries
Kosher salt (2 kg)
Fresh nutmeg
Dried bay leaves


Pantry

Peanuts
Apple cider vinegar
Capers
Dijon mustard
Sour pickle
Pickle juice
Extra virgin olive oil
Ketchup
Mayo
Pickled ginger
Canola oil
Red wine vinegar
Soy sauce
Tabasco
Vegetable oil
Worcestershire
Prepared horseradish


Dairy & Freezer

Duck fat (1 lb)
Eggs (22)
Gruyère
Parmigiano reggiano
Heavy cream (35%)
Unsalted butter


Baking

Instant yeast
All-purpose flour
Sesame seeds
Slivered almonds
Turbinado sugar
White sugar


Booze

Vodka
White wine
Walter Caesar mix


Meat

Salmon fillet (2 lb )
Bacon (4 slices )
Duck legs (2 )
Littleneck clams (0.33 lb )
Cooked lobster (0.67 lb ) or 2lb live lobster
Salmon fillet (6 oz )
Salted anchovies (4 )
Sausages (2 )
1 Cornish hen or small chicken
Steelhead trout (4 oz)


Bread

Caraway Rye bread
Yellow corn tortillas (6 )
Crusty bread

Prep

A couple days before
15 mins

Start your salmon cure

Ask your fishmonger when their Atlantic salmon comes in and whether they can set some aside for you. You've got to start with a fresh and fatty product. You’ll need a 2lb piece of salmon.

In a large bowl, mix 2.5 lb Diamond crystal kosher salt and 2.5 lb turbinado sugar together thoroughly to make your cure. Spread about a quarter of the mixture evenly in a large casserole dish.

Lay the salmon, skin side down, onto the cure. Sprinkle a small amount of the cure onto the flesh of the salmon, and gently massage it in with your hands. Then garnish generously with half a bunch chopped dill and the zest of 2 lemons.

Evenly sprinkle ¼ cup vodka over the salmon, then cover with the remaining cure. You need to make sure that you can't see the fish anymore! Cover the dish with plastic wrap or aluminum foil.

Find a nice flat place in your fridge and slide the casserole dish in. This will need to be refrigerated for 2 to 3 days, depending on how firm and salty you want your fish. Flip the salmon once daily, and make sure that it's always covered in the cure.

Once the fish has firmed up to a texture that you like, rinse the cure off with water and dry with paper towel. Garnish with the remaining half bunch of chopped dill and the zest one lemon and let dry covered in the fridge for another 12 hours.


The day before

Make the mi-cuit trout
Portion your trout into two equal 2 oz chunks. Season with the 1 tsp kosher salt and ½ tsp white sugar and place in a resealable container. Cure covered in the fridge for at least 8 hours.


Mise en place (the day of)
1 hour

Spatchcock the chicken
Lay the bird breast side down and use kitchen shears to cut down each side of the spine. Remove the spine and the wing tips (you can save these for stock), then turn the birds over, press down on the breastbone, and flatten them.

For the finger chile sauce: Remove the stems from 1/2lb finger chiles, but leave the seeds in. Roughly chop the chilies and 5 cloves garlic.

For the court bouillon: roughly chop 1/4 head of fennel, 1/4 head of celery, and 1/2 a white onion. They can all hang out in the same bowl together.

IMG_1831.jpg

Start cooking
3.5 hours

Set the chicken to pickle
Place the bird in a large container with a tight-fitting lid, cover with the pickle juice, and refrigerate. We’ll be soaking the bird in the juice for 24 to 48 hours (Day 2 of the meal plan).

Start the bread
For the dough, in a large bowl, combine 3 cups flour with the 1 Tbsp kosher salt, ⅓ cup white sugar, and 1 Tbsp instant yeast. Whisk the ingredients for 30 seconds to combine evenly.

In another bowl, whisk 4 large eggs. Remove and refrigerate 2 Tbsp to use as egg wash for the topping. Whisk 1 cup of water and 1/2 cup of olive oil into the remaining eggs.

Using a wooden spoon, stir the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients. The dough will be very sticky. Stir in 1 more cup of flour. The dough will still be sticky. Stir in additional flour (1/2 cup to 1 cup) until dough is too stiff to continue stirring. The dough will probably still be sticky.

Sprinkle 1/4 cup flour on your work surface. Turn the dough out onto the flour. Using the heels of your hands, knead in enough flour so that the dough doesn't stick to your hands but is still moist. (I usually use almost 6 cups flour in total, but this can vary.) The kneading can also be done in a stand mixer with the dough hook. Knead for about 10 minutes by hand or 5 to 6 minutes in a mixer, until the dough becomes smooth and elastic. Don't worry. Add extra flour gradually, but remember that it's always better to have a slightly soft, moist dough than a hard, dry one-it's more difficult to add liquid to a dry dough than flour to a moist one.

Oil a 4-quart bowl with 1 tbsp olive oil. Place the dough in the bowl and turn the dough over to oil it on all sides. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and then with a clean dish towel. Let the dough rise until it has doubled, 1 to 2 hours. If you use a 4-quart bowl, the dough should fill the bowl.

Make the duck salt
Blend 6 dried bay leaves, 1½ Tbsp chili flakes, 4 Tbsp dried thyme, 4 ½ Tbsp black peppercorns, 2 Tbsp fennel seeds, and 3 Tbsp juniper berries in a spice grinder until they're quite fine. Mix spices with 3 ¾ cups kosher salt in a bowl. Store in a mason jar until needed.

Make the finger chili sauce
Place 1/2 cup maple syrup, ½ cup ketchup, ½ Tbsp kosher salt, 1½ Tbsp white sugar, 1 cups apple cider vinegar, the chilies, and the garlic in a blender and puree. Let the blender run for a while or the chili skins won't break down. Transfer the sauce to a tightly sealed container and let it sit and ferment at room temperature for 24 hours. Tomorrow you can divide the sauce into small jam jars and refrigerate. This should last for a couple of months if stored properly.

Prepare your court bouillon
In a large pot, combine the fennel, celery, and onion with 2 bay leaves, ½ lemon, ½ cup white wine, 1 Tbsp kosher salt, and ½ Tbsp black peppercorns. Add 3 quarts water and bring up to a simmer over medium-high heat for at least 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, strain the bouillon, return it to the pot, and heat it to 145°F. A kitchen thermometer is essential here. Gently lay your trout portions into the poaching liquid and poach for 45 minutes. Make sure your liquid stays at a consistent temperature or you may overcook your fish. If you have a sous-vide cooker, you can skip making the court bouillon and simply place your trout portions in a vacuum bag with the olive oil, seal, and sous vide for 45 minutes. Cool the trout and store for tomorrow’s lunch.

Back to the bread
Once the dough has risen, gently punch it down to release the air, then knead it again to form a ball. There are may ways to shape challah. This will make one really large or two medium-large breads. To make two, divide the dough in half. Then divide each half into thirds and braid them like you would braid hair.

You can bake these on baking sheets or in large loaf pan, but make sure that you line either with parchment paper. Transfer the braided challahs to the prepared sheets. Cover each one loosely with oiled plastic wrap and let them rise for 30 to 60 minutes, or until doubled. This is a good time to preheat your oven to 350˚F.

IMG_1845.jpg
After making this bread, I learned that you can do a double wash of egg to get a deeper coloured crust. The first wash goes on on the second rise after braiding and the second wash goes on before baking.

After making this bread, I learned that you can do a double wash of egg to get a deeper coloured crust. The first wash goes on on the second rise after braiding and the second wash goes on before baking.

If you’re following along in the book, there is a typo that reads to poach your fish at 45˚F which is not really possible. It should be 145˚F.

If you’re following along in the book, there is a typo that reads to poach your fish at 45˚F which is not really possible. It should be 145˚F.

IMG_1870.jpg
Making aioli and caesar dressing back to back is a reminder that emulsified eggs are a delicious palette for whatever flavour you want to add. I would maybe halve the caesar dressing in the future because it is a lot.

Making aioli and caesar dressing back to back is a reminder that emulsified eggs are a delicious palette for whatever flavour you want to add. I would maybe halve the caesar dressing in the future because it is a lot.

Start the pickled beets
In a small pot, combine the 1 lb golden beets, ½ cup cider vinegar, ¼ cup white sugar, ½ Tbsp kosher salt, and 1 bay leaf with ½ cup water. Use as small a pot as possible to make sure that the beets are covered in the liquid.

Simmer the beets over medium heat until a knife goes in with little resistance. This could take 40 to 60 minutes depending on the size of your beets.

Make the aioli
Combine the 1 large egg yolk, ½ clove garlic, minced, 1 tsp dijon mustard, 2 tsp fresh lemon juice, and a pinch kosher salt in a food processor. Turn the processor on and mix for a few seconds to aerate the ingredients. Then, with the processor still running, slowly drizzle in ⅛ cup olive oil and ⅛ cup canola oil to emulsify your aioli. Taste and add seasoning if needed. Store in the fridge for lunch tomorrow.

Make some Caesar dressing
Rinse out the food processor. Combine the 2 cloves smashed garlic, ⅛ cup Kozlik's dijon mustard, 1 egg yolk, ⅛ cup vinegar, ⅛ cup lemon juice, and 4 salted anchovies in a food processor and process until it's as smooth as you can get it. With the food processor running, slowly drizzle in the ½ cup canola and ½ cup olive oil so the dressing can emulsify. Add ½ cup Parmigiano Reggiano and pulse the food processor until the dressing comes together. Season with salt, pepper, Tabasco, and Worcestershire to taste. Store in a jar until ready to use.

Bake the bread
Once the challahs have risen a second time, brush each one gently with the reserved beaten up egg. Sprinkle with seeds. You can combine the seeds or sprinkle sections of the bread with different seeds.

Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes. Check the bread, and if it's browning too much, lower the oven to 325˚F and cover the bread loosely with aluminum foil. Bake 15 to 20 minutes longer, until a meat thermometer in the middle of the bread reads 185˚F to 195˚F. If you're making one larger challah, it will take longer to bake. Remove bread from the pan and cool on a wire rack.

Finish the beets
Allow the beets to cool, then peel and cut them into 1-inch chunks.

Cure your duck legs
Season 2 duck legs with 2 tsp duck salt. Place them in a resealable container, cover, and let them sit in the fridge overnight to cure a bit.v

Pickle some red onions
For the pickled onions, thinly slice half a red onion and put it in a large bowl. In a small pot, combine ¼ cup red wine vinegar, ¼ cup sugar, ½ tsp salt, and ½ cup water. Bring to a boil, then pour the liquid over the onions and let cool.

You’re done! Clean up and have some challah to celebrate!

IMG_1872.jpg

Day 1: Back to Begonia

Today’s meals should be eaten on a patio under a white umbrella on a busy street with construction pylons forcing traffic into a single lane and people rushing back and forth into the subway station across the street. Pretend you are in Paris but know in your heart you’re in Toronto.


Lunch
Le Grand Aioli

Hard boil and quarter 2 eggs. quarter 2 radishes, blanch and cool a few baby carrots, some green beans, and some brocolli florets. You can also freestyle here with whatever beautiful or about-to-go-bad veggies you have in your crisper.

Choose your most beautiful plate or board. Choose a smaller plate, so it looks full with goodness. On it, make small piles of the trout, pickled beets, radishes, eggs, raw hen-of-the-woods-mushrooms, green beans, broccoli, and carrots around the plate. Use a little bit of this, and a little bit of that. Put the aioli in a deep ramekin on top of the whole mountain of glory. Serve with crusty bread, if desired.

IMG_1885.jpg

Dinner
Duck Confit
with Sweet Potato Gratin

Preheat your oven to 300'F.

In a straight-sided pot or Dutch oven that will fit your 2 duck legs in a single layer (but not much more), melt 2 cups duck fat over low heat until fully melted.

Add your duck legs to the fat and make sure that as much of the duck legs are covered as possible.

Put a lid on top of your pot or wrap 1t in aluminum foil. Put in the oven to confit for about 1½ hours.

When your duck legs are done, most of the skin and meat should have receded up the shin toward the thigh and the meat should be tender throughout.

When the duck legs are almost done, grease a small baking pan with 1 Tbsp butter. Peel ½ lb russet and ½ lb sweet potatoes, then slice them widthwise about 1/8 inch thick.

After you take out your duck, turn up the oven to 400°F.

In a large pot over medium heat, place the potato slices, 1 clove garlic, finely minced, 1 cups heavy cream, 1 ½ Tbsp white wine, 1 dash Tabasco, a few sprigs fresh thyme, ½ Tbsp kosher salt, ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, and a grating of fresh nutmeg and stir to combine.

Keep stirring often with a wooden spoon for about 8 minutes. Once the potatoes have started to soften, stir in 4 Tbsp butter. Transfer the potato mixture to the prepared baking pan and remove the thyme stems.

Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed.

Press the potatoes into the pan as flat as possible, then cover with ½ cup grated gruyère and bake, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes until golden brown.

Serve hot with the duck legs.

IMG_1900.jpg

Day 2: Let’s say it’s Sunday

Imagine the casual grab-what’s-in-the-fridge-edness of a late breakfast: you know, whatever deli is leftover from yesterday. Combine that with a nice family evening meal for once not eaten in front of the TV and boom, you got Sunday any day of the week.


Lunch
Lemon Dill Gravlax
and Egg Salad with Challah

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. With a slotted spoon, drop 8 eggs into the boiling water and let boil for 11 minutes.

Transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water for another 11 minutes, then peel immediately.

Grate your eggs on the finest side of a box grater, or chop your eggs to your desired texture and place in a bowl.

Add 3 Tbsp scallions finely chopped, 1½ Tbsp fresh dill, chopped, ½ cup mayo, 1 squeeze fresh lemon juice, a couple dashes of tabasco, freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of salt to the bowl, and mix.

Slice your gravlax very thinly on an angle.

Lay out the challah, gravlax, and egg salad for people to make their own plates. You can thinly slice some red onion and put some capers and lemon wedges out as well for those who want them.

IMG_1913.jpg

JW Bird with Endive Salad

BBQ: Preheat your barbecue on medium heat, then put your flattened birds, skin side down, on the grill. Turn the heat down to low and close the lid. Cook for about 20 minutes without opening the lid of the barbecue. This will make the skin beautiful and crispy. Flip the birds and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just to let the heat kiss the flesh and bones. Remove the birds from the heat and let them rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

SKILLET: Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Heat a skillet that will fit the bird snuggly on the stove over medium-high heat. Once hot, put the bird, skin side down in the skillet and cook a couple minutes on the stovetop, then put in the oven for 20 minutes. Flip the bird and cook for another few minutes until the bird is cooked through (use a thermometer). Remove from the oven and let red for 5-10 minutes.

While the chicken is cooking, make the salsa verde:

Cut ⅛ cup shallots and ⅛ cup sour pickles into a small-dice. Chop ⅛ cup capers, ¼ bunch fresh parsley, ½ bunch fresh chives, ½ bunch fresh tarragon, ½ bunch fresh dill. Add everything to the same bowl with the zest of ½ lemon, and 1½ cups olive oil. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Then make the endive salad:

Cut the bottoms off of 2 endives and separate the leaves. Pile the leaves in an endive mountain, with the largest leaves at the bottom and the smallest at the top.

Cut the top and tail off 1 red grapefruit and cut off the peel by setting one end on a cutting board and cutting from top to bottom, following the shape of the grapefruit and keeping as much flesh as possible while removing all the pith and peel. Then, remove each segment by slicing into the grapefruit. Do this over a bowl and catch any liquid. Toast the almonds in a dry skillet. Scatter your grapefruit segments over the salad, followed by the tarragon and slivered almonds.

For the vinaigrette, in a small bowl, combine 1 tbsp grapefruit juice or lemon juice, ½ Tbsp mustard, 3 Tbsp olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Blend well with a whisk or an immersion blender.

Lightly dress the salad with the vinaigrette and drizzle any excess grapefruit juice overtop as well.

Once your birds have rested, cut them into eighths. Use a knife that you don't mind cutting through bones with. Separate the drumsticks from the thighs and cut the breasts in half.

Arrange your bird on a platter and generously smother them with the salsa verde.

IMG_1935.jpg

Day 3: Breakfast for dinner

Today you’re going to have a light lunch and a big greasy spoon breakfast for dinner. Why? Because you’re an adult goddamnit and you can do what you want. Dinner is paired with Caesars irmmed with duck salt for the same reason.

Lunch
Poke-ish

If you'd like to make your own tortilla chips, prepare your deep fryer and heat the vegetable oil to F. Use enough oil so that the tortillas can move around freely. Cut 3 fresh corn tortillas into six wedges each and fry until golden and crispy, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Cut 6oz sushi-grade salmon into long strips, then dice the fish into 1/2-inch cubes.

For the poke dressing, combine 1 ½ Tbsp pickled ginger, chopped, ⅛ cup rice wine vinegar, 1 Tbsp maple syrup, and ½ Tbsp soy sauce in a blender and puree for 1 minute.

Add ½ tsp chili flakes, ⅛ cup olive oil, ⅛ cup canola oil, and 2 dashes Tabasco and blend on low until well incorporated.

Toss the salmon with ⅛ cup red onions, finely chopped, ¼ cup scallions, chopped, ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped, and about 3 tbsp dressing (you can add more dressing if you like).

Evenly spread the salmon poke over the tortilla chips and garnish with peanuts, furikake, lime wedges, and a few sprigs of cilantro.

IMG_2085.jpg

Dinner
All-Day Breakfast
and Rose & Sons Caesar

Caramelize ¾ cup onions.

For the hash, cut 1 lb yukon gold potatoes into thick matchsticks. This is best accomplished using a mandoline with the teeth on it, but you can also use a sharp knife. Just make sure to cut your pieces evenly so they cook evenly.

Soak the potatoes in cold water for 30 minutes to pull out most of the starch. Change the water 4 times during this 30 minutes

If you have a deep fryer, fill it with enough vegetable oil so that the potatoes can move around freely, and heat the oil to 345˚F. A kitchen thermometer is helpful here. If you don't have a deep fryer, you can use a large Dutch oven or high-sided pot.

Line a large plate with paper towels and preheat the oven to 200˚F. Blanch the matchstick potatoes for 2 minutes or until they become soft but do not yet take on any color. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to the paper towel-lined plate to soak up any excess oil.

In a large cast-iron pan, heat the ¼ cup duck fat over medium heat. When the potatoes have cooled a bit, transfer them to the pan and add the leaves from 4 sprigs fresh thyme, 2 tsp duck salt, and the caramelized onions. Keep an eye on the potatoes and flip them when they have become golden brown and delicious-y; this should take about 5 to 7 minutes per side.

Transfer the potatoes to a baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven while you prepare the rest of the breakfast.

Wipe down the cast-iron pan and fry the bacon over medium heat until crispy on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the bacon to the baking sheet in the oven to keep warm. You can keep the bacon warm right on top of the potatoes.

Split 2 smoked sausages lengthwise down the middle and fry in the leftover bacon fat for about 5 minutes per side. Since the sausages are already smoked and cooked, we're just looking to crisp them on each side.

Right before you make the eggs, make some caesar’s to go with dinner. Rim two 10 oz rocks glass with duck salt, then fill it to the top with ice. Pour 1 oz vodka over each cup of ice ice and top with the Walter Caesar mix. Add 1 tsp prepared horseradish, 3 splashes Tabasco, 2 splashes worcestershire each and stir. Garnish with a wedge of lime and half a sour pickle.

Fry 4 eggs in any remaining bacon fat and a good knob of butter. Sunny-side up is best, and remember to season with salt and pepper.

Serve with a side of toasted rye bread (or any bread you choose) and finger chili hot sauce.

IMG_1995-1.jpg

Day 4: Something fishy

Today is the day you (I) have been waiting for, when you get to indulge in some beautiful seafood. Let’s finish strong!


Lunch
Platter of Leftovers

I know you have a pound and a half of salmon hanging out in your fridge, tons of challah, egg salad, sour pickles, aioli, maybe some radishes? Clean out your fridge for lunch today, and maybe have a Caesar with lunch… it’s only 1oz of liquor.


Dinner
Clam Chowder
and Brussels Sprouts Caesar

Do your mise en place:

Thinly slice 1/3 of an onion and medium-dice the other 2/3. Medium-dice 1/3 cup carrots. Medium dice 1/3 cup celery. Medium-dice 2/3 cup yukon gold potatoes. If you're cooking a lobster from live, do that and remove the meat. Clean 3 cups brussels sprouts. Halve 2/3 of them and thinly slice 1/3 of them.

First, make your brussels sprouts:

For the croutons, butter 1 slice caraway rye bread on both sides and fry in a large pan over medium heat until golden brown on both sides, about 1 to 2 minutes per side.

Remove the bread from the pan, season with salt, and cut into croutons.

To prepare the brussels sprouts, heat the vegetable oil in a deep fryer or large Dutch oven until it reaches 365°F. Use enough oil so that the sprouts can move around freely. Fry only the halved brussels sprouts until soft with some color, about 1 to 2 minutes. Be careful, the sprouts spit a lot when they're in the deep fryer!

In a large bowl, mix together the cooked and raw sliced brussels sprouts, croutons, 2 Tbsp pickled onions, 2-3 Tbsp Caesar dressing, and hot sauce to taste. Taste and season with salt if necessary. The remaining onions and dressing can be kept in the fridge for about 1 week and used for sandwiches, salads, or whatever you like.

Make the chowder:

Rinse the a third of a pound of littleneck clams the thoroughly under cold water for 20 minutes to get rid of any sand.

In a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid, heat 1-2 Tbsp canola oil on high heat, then sauté the thinly sliced onions until they just start to turn translucent, about 1 minute.

Add the clams, stir quickly, then add 2 Tbsp white wine.

Cover the pot with the lid right away and turn the heat down to medium. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the clams have opened. Discard any clams that haven't opened.

Transfer the clams to a bowl and reserve the clam liquor for later.

For the chowder, in a large stockpot, heat another 1-2 Tbsp canola oil on medium heat, then add the diced onions, carrots, celery, and and sweat them until the veg have become soft, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the potatoes and keep stirring for another minute, then add the heavy cream and the reserved clam juices. Let the soup come up to a simmer.

Continue to simmer until the potatoes are just cooked, about 20 minutes.

Add ⅔ Tbsp fresh tarragon, 2 dashes Tabasco, 2 Tbsp white wine, and cooked clams to the pot. If you're using lobster as well, add 2-3 oz cooked lobster meat at this step.

Bring the soup up to temperature, spoon out and divide the veg evenly among your serving bowls, then top with the creamy broth.

Garnish with the seafood and more picked tarragon.

IMG_1912.jpg
IMG_2036.jpg

Lessons and leftovers

What a week! First of all, I loved grocery shopping this week. This book was written in Toronto so I was able to find every ingredient easily and choosing seasonal recipes was equally simple. Things I loved about this meal plan: I was able to make a lot in advance without spending a million hours in the kitchen. Even though I went through a box of Diamond Crystal salt nothing was over-salted. Opening my fridge to look for a snack and finding egg salad is a dream scenario. I learned how to break down a lobster, clean clams, and confit duck legs. These recipes deployed condiments and pickles like no other. I got to reminisce some of my favourite dining spots.

In terms of leftovers, I still have a pile of Caesar dressing, and a bunch of salmon. I have a TON of salsa verde left over that I used on breakfast tacos. The grand aioli left over a bunch of veggies. You might be seeing the synergies already. A lot of meal plans I’ve made and I’ve seen rely on stews and braises and bulk cooking to ease the burden of cooking during the week. With this meal plan you’re making some deli staples and condiments and prepping proteins. For me this yields the kinds of meals I go out to eat, and also is flexible so that you can find uses for leftovers.